Our products are light in weight and easy to cut using woodworking tools, therefore if you are a confident and competent DIY enthusiast, you should be able to install our products yourselves. Alternatively, a local tradesman or handyman will find the work well within their capabilities.
We recommend using the following tools for any alterations and fixing:
Sharp toothed woodworking saw
Knives or chisels (for trimming)
Oval headed nails or screws (every couple of feet)
Adhesive (solvent based wood glue such as no-nails, pink, gripfix, pink etc)
'U' shaped beams: T1 Main Beam/ T16 10 ft. Beam/ T20 8ft. Beam/ T23 The Great Beam
Our Beams are best fitted around a soft wood batten cut to the size of the beam’s ‘U’ shape. For the Great Beam your RSJ fulfils this purpose although some ‘packing out’ may be required.
1. Screw the batten to the ceiling timbers. Then fit the beam around it using a
solvent-based adhesive where the beam meets the ceiling and where it meets
2. You should also use oval-headed nails every 2 feet, punching the nail heads
beneath the surface and out of sight within the rough grain of the moulding
surface (if necessary you can also cover the head with brown wax).
3. When joining T16’s or T20’s to make a longer beam simply butt join and
cover the joint with the relevant Simulated Iron Bracket (T17 & T21
respectively). For other beams, call for advice.
4. In order for the beam to touch the wall both sides you will need to
manufacture some room for manoeuvre. There are two methods for doing this.
a. Knock out a pocket about 1.5” deep on one wall to allow you the
manoeuvre room to push the beam tight to the far wall. Attach the
beam and then re-plaster up to it.
b. Cut a short 2” - 3” piece from the end of the beam, manoeuvre it into
position tight against the far wall. Attach the beam and then re-adhere
the cut piece to the end.
5. Finish with filler, stain and wax if required.
Four sided beam: T2 Intermediate Beam
Again, best fitted around a softwood batten fixed to ceiling timbers. Choose the 3 sides you want exposed, and cut out a section from the face to be fixed to the ceiling, in the same size as the softwood batten. Then follow points 1. and 2. from the above instructions. For half depth intermediate beams you can follow the above instructions or, alternatively, use glue to adhere to the ceiling and also use oval- headed nails every 2 feet (nailing diagonally into the ceiling). Punch the nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight with the rough grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can also cover the head with brown wax). Intermediate Beams join to other beams and walls with simple butt joints (any exposed inner core areas will then not be visible). You may need to make some room for manoeuvre in which case follow instruction 4. given in the above section. In order to make a longer T2, you can fit them using a scarf joint, whereby you cut diagonally - see graphic below.
These can be installed by just using adhesive and nails/screws every 2 feet.