Layout guide & Installation.

We have had almost 50 years of experience working with beamed ceilings, not only manufacturing, but advising, researching and our own general interest. We like to advise our clients on the most realistic way to reproduce an authentic beamed ceiling, as the traditional layout is sometimes not what you’d expect. 

Start with a main beam (such as the T1/T23). This should be positioned widthways as opposed to lengthways (it should cross the narrowest part of the ceiling). Sometimes, just the main beam can be enough if keeping things simple, or if the room is relatively small and the ceiling low.

The next step would be to add a network of intermediate beams (such as the T2/T2 half). These should be fitted at a right angle to the main beam and should be between 1m and 1.2m apart.

 

Finally, the joists would be fitted. These can run off the main beam and/or intermediate beams perpendicularly. Joists should generally be 40 cm apart.

Installation 

Our products are light in weight and easy to cut using woodworking tools, therefore if you are a confident and competent DIY enthusiast, you should be able to install our products easily. Alternatively, a local tradesman or handyman will find the work well within their capabilities.

Tools
We recommend using the following tools for any alterations and fixing:
Sharp toothed woodworking saw
Knives or chisels (for trimming)
Oval headed nails or screws (every couple of feet)
Nail punch
Adhesive (solvent based wood glue such as no-nails, pink, gripfix, pink etc)

'U' shaped beams: T1 Main Beam/ T16 10 ft. Beam/ T20 8ft. Beam/ T23 The Great Beam, T2 Half, Joists
Our Beams are best fitted around a soft wood batten cut to the size of the beam’s ‘U’ shape. For the Great Beam your RSJ box fulfils this purpose although some ‘packing out’ may be required.
1. Screw the batten to the ceiling timbers or plasterboard. Then fit the beam around it using a solvent-based adhesive where the beam meets the ceiling and where it meets the batten.
2. You should also use oval-headed nails, or small-headed screws, every 2 feet, finishing the heads beneath the surface and out of sight within the rough grain of the moulding surface (conceal the hole with brown wax).
3. When joining T16’s or T20’s to make a longer beam simply butt join and
cover the joint with the relevant Simulated Iron Bracket (T17 & T21
respectively). For other beams, it is best that the lengthening is done at the factory during manufacture; please call for advice.
4. In order for the beam to touch the wall both sides you will need to
manufacture some room for manoeuvre. There are two methods for doing this.
a. Knock out a pocket about 1.5” deep on one wall to allow you the room to push the beam tight to the far wall. Attach the beam and then re-plaster up to it.
b. Cut a 2” - 3” piece from the end of the beam, manoeuvre it into
position tight against the far wall. Attach the beam and then re-adhere
the cut piece to the end.
5. Finish with filler, stain and wax if required.

 

Four sided beam: T2 Intermediate Beam
Again, best fitted around a softwood batten fixed to ceiling timbers. Choose the 3 sides you want exposed, and cut out a section from the face to be fixed to the ceiling, in the same size as the softwood batten. Then follow the above instructions.